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dt_faul_2017_schiell

O processo de vestir como princípio para o design de vestuário

Autonomia para mulheres com patologias músculo-esqueléticas

Name
Letícia Schiell
Year
2017
Institution
Lisbon School of Architecture Universidade de Lisboa
Supervisors
Fernando Moreira da Silva, Inês Simões
Discipline
Fashion Design
Scope
Inclusive Design
Taxonomy
Praxiology/Phenomenology
Type
Theoretical/Practical
Language
Portuguese
Wordcount / Pagecount
102,550 / 293
Joint supervision
No

Design solutions to promote the autonomy of women with musculoskeletal disorders

Research Process (6 methods)

1. Literature review N = x
Exploratory Qualitative

x

2. Interview N = 26
Exploratory/Generative Qualitative

women with musculoskeletal disorders

3. Observation N = 26
Generative Qualitative

women with musculoskeletal disorders

4. Design project N = Unspecified
Generative Qualitative Design process

Design of pieces of clothing

5. Usability test N = 18
Generative/Evaluative Qualitative

women with musculoskeletal disorders

6. Usability test N = 8
Evaluative Qualitative

women with musculoskeletal disorders

Knowledge Transfer & Exchange

Knowledge Exchange (PhD Process): Exchange with community representatives

IK&T Academia Design Practice Society
Context No No No
Vision Yes Yes No
Means No No No

Recommendations (7)

R426 Methodological Artifact, System & Service Design Priority: High

Measure dressing-related movement limits in pathology-specific studies and identify average scapular/shoulder-girdle inclination ranges that can support individualized garment pattern adjustments.

Scope:
Micro → Meso
Time Horizon:
Medium
Evidence Strength:
Indicative
Feasibility:
Medium
R427 Artifact, System & Service Design Methodological Priority: High

Extend the research from upper-body garments to lower-body clothing, considering functional and postural alterations that affect gait and dressing at the lower-body level.

Scope:
Micro → Meso
Time Horizon:
Medium
Evidence Strength:
Indicative
Feasibility:
High
R428 Theoretical & Conceptual Methodological Priority: Medium

Study male bodies, male dressing routines, and compare male and female dressing processes to identify convergences and divergences relevant for adaptive clothing design.

Scope:
Meso
Time Horizon:
Medium
Evidence Strength:
Exploratory
Feasibility:
High
R429 Participation, Equity & Ethics Artifact, System & Service Design Priority: Critical

Investigate how cognitive pathologies and subjective identification needs—such as colour, cut, print, and symbolic identification with garments—should inform clothing design for dependent users.

Scope:
Micro → Meso
Time Horizon:
Medium → Long
Evidence Strength:
Exploratory
Feasibility:
Medium
R430 Artifact, System & Service Design Participation, Equity & Ethics Priority: High

Extend adaptive-clothing research to other disabilities and limitations that complicate the relationship between body, movement, and dress, in order to support a more inclusive, democratic, and fair fashion system.

Scope:
Macro
Time Horizon:
Long
Evidence Strength:
Indicative
Feasibility:
Medium-High
R431 Artifact, System & Service Design Methodological Priority: High

Investigate garment comfort during use, pressure points, pattern adequacy, low-friction textile combinations, and improved fastening mechanisms that reduce fine-motor demands.

Scope:
Micro
Time Horizon:
Medium
Evidence Strength:
Indicative
Feasibility:
High
R432 Process & Organization Policy & Standards Priority: Medium-High

Assess the financial viability and industrial scale-up of adaptive products and services for specific publics, creating pathways for mass-market insertion rather than only niche provision.

Scope:
Macro
Time Horizon:
Medium → Long
Evidence Strength:
Indicative
Feasibility:
Medium