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dt_faul_2013_morais

A sustentabilidade no design de vestuário

Reciclagem de vestuário descartado para um novo ciclo de moda

Name
Carla Morais
Year
2013
Institution
Lisbon School of Architecture Universidade de Lisboa
Supervisors
Manuela Figueiredo, Ana Broega
Discipline
Fashion Design
Scope
Sustainability
Taxonomy
Praxiology
Type
Theoretical/Practical
Language
Portuguese
Wordcount / Pagecount
75,600 / 216
Joint supervision
No

Recycling discarded clothing for a new fashion cycle

Research Process (12 methods)

1. Literature review N = x
Exploratory Qualitative

x

2. Questionnaire N = 360
Exploratory Qualitative

Women aged 25-65

3. Case study N = 24
Exploratory/Generative Qualitative

Recycling chain actors

4. Field study N = 1
Exploratory/Generative Qualitative

Mirafios factory

5. Field study N = unspecified
Exploratory/Generative Qualitative

Gathering of fabric from Ecolã Factory

6. Field study N = unspecified
Exploratory/Generative Qualitative

Gathering of fabric from Malhas Veleiro Factory

7. Field study N = unspecified
Exploratory/Generative Qualitative

Gathering of fabric from Malhas Imperial Factory

8. Field study N = unspecified
Exploratory/Generative Qualitative

Gathering of fabric from Avelana Factory

9. Experiment N = unspecified
Generative Qualitative

Development of recycled fabric samples

10. Experiment N = unspecified
Generative Qualitative

Development of recycled fabric samples

11. Experiment N = unspecified
Generative Qualitative

Development of recycled fabric samples

12. Design project N = 1
Generative Design process

Essential wardrobe project

Knowledge Transfer & Exchange

Knowledge Exchange (PhD Process): Produced with input

IK&T Academia Design Practice Society
Context No No No
Vision Yes No No
Means No No No

Recommendations (8)

R184 Artifact, System & Service Design Evaluation, Monitoring & Impact Priority: High

Verify the resistance of recycled open-end cotton yarn in knitting on flat looms without blending with virgin raw material, for the production of clothing articles.

Scope:
Macro
Time Horizon:
Medium → Long
Evidence Strength:
Indicative
Feasibility:
Medium
R185 Methodological Resourcing & Sustainability Priority: High

Promote laboratory research focused on integrating recycled raw material into new textile and clothing production.

Scope:
Macro
Time Horizon:
Long
Evidence Strength:
Exploratory
Feasibility:
Medium
R186 Evaluation, Monitoring & Impact Methodological Priority: High

Statistically validate the consumer-behavior findings and explore additional variable crossings, such as age versus clothing styles used or age versus disposal practices.

Scope:
Macro
Time Horizon:
Medium
Evidence Strength:
Indicative
Feasibility:
High
R187 Methodological Theoretical & Conceptual Priority: High

Develop a specific Environmental Involvement Scale linking fashion and sustainability, with particular attention to the questionnaire issues between points 14 and 24.

Scope:
Macro
Time Horizon:
Long
Evidence Strength:
Exploratory
Feasibility:
Medium
R188 Dissemination & Knowledge Mobilization Methodological Priority: Medium-High

Register in Portuguese the clothing-design methodologies known as Subtraction Cutting, Jigsaw/Jigsaw Puzzle, and Tesselation, translating and formalizing them as 'Modelagem por Subtração', 'Quebra-cabeças', and 'Fragmentação'.

Scope:
Macro
Time Horizon:
Medium
Evidence Strength:
Indicative
Feasibility:
High
R189 Artifact, System & Service Design Process & Organization Priority: High

Finalize in practice the essential wardrobe proposed by the thesis, analyzing the full functional diversity of all pieces considered basic.

Scope:
Macro
Time Horizon:
Medium
Evidence Strength:
Indicative
Feasibility:
High
R190 Artifact, System & Service Design Methodological Priority: High

Continue testing the multifunctionality based on the similarity between arm length and inseam measurement, especially through fabric prototypes.

Scope:
Macro
Time Horizon:
Medium → Long
Evidence Strength:
Exploratory
Feasibility:
Medium
R191 Process & Organization Resourcing & Sustainability Priority: Medium-High

Use the preceding actions as a basis for opening a spin-off sustainable brand focused on recycled yarn, recycled textiles, and sustainable clothing production.

Scope:
Macro
Time Horizon:
Long
Evidence Strength:
Indicative
Feasibility:
Medium