Novos materiais e técnicas aplicadas ao bordado de Castelo Branco no design têxtil e de vestuário
- Name
- Ana Fernandes
- Year
- 2012
- Institution
- Lisbon School of Architecture Universidade de Lisboa
- Supervisors
- Manuela Figueiredo, Isabel Gouveia
- Discipline
- Fashion Design
- Scope
- Innovation
- Taxonomy
- Praxiology
- Type
- Theoretical/Practical
- Language
- Portuguese
- Wordcount / Pagecount
- 87,500 / 250
- Joint supervision
- No
New materials and techniques applied to Castelo Branco embroidery in textile and clothing design
Research Process (7 methods)
x
Embroiderer
Embroiderer
Design project with professional designer Maria Helena Cardoso
Professional designer Maria Helena Cardoso
Clothing design project
Clothing prototypes
| # | Name of Method | Research Phase | Research Approach | Researcher Role | Object of Study / Participants | N |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Literature review | Exploratory | Qualitative | x | x | x |
| 2 | Questionnaire | Exploratory | Qualitative | x | Embroiderer | 7 |
| 3 | Workshop | Generative | Both | Participatory | Embroiderer | 7 |
| 4 | Design project | Generative | x | Participatory | Design project with professional designer Maria Helena Cardoso | 1 |
| 5 | Interview | Exploratory | Qualitative | x | Professional designer Maria Helena Cardoso | 1 |
| 6 | Design project | Generative | x | Design process | Clothing design project | unspecified |
| 7 | Prototyping | Generative/Evaluative | x | Design process | Clothing prototypes | unspecified |
Knowledge Transfer & Exchange
Knowledge Exchange (PhD Process): Exchange with community representatives
| IK&T | Academia | Design Practice | Society |
|---|---|---|---|
| Context | No | No | No |
| Vision | No | No | No |
| Means | No | Yes | No |
Recommendations (5)
Optimize the needle-punched nonwoven production process so the new supports achieve higher cohesion and resistance—especially by testing higher needle density per surface area and other process adjustments—thereby improving suitability for Castelo Branco embroidery.
- Scope:
- Meso
- Time Horizon:
- Medium
- Evidence Strength:
- Indicative
- Feasibility:
- Medium-High
Investigate alternative textile-support technologies—other than conventional woven fabrics and needle-punching—to identify viable bases for applying Castelo Branco embroidery in textile and fashion design.
- Scope:
- Meso → Macro
- Time Horizon:
- Medium → Long
- Evidence Strength:
- Exploratory
- Feasibility:
- Medium
Test other sustainable textile materials—potentially including artificial fibers—with higher resistance than discontinuous silk (anafaia), both for the support base and for the material used to produce the embroidery itself.
- Scope:
- Meso
- Time Horizon:
- Medium
- Evidence Strength:
- Indicative
- Feasibility:
- Medium-High
Develop new applications of the resulting materials and techniques in textile and fashion design beyond women’s clothing, extending the innovation to other product categories and user groups.
- Scope:
- Meso → Macro
- Time Horizon:
- Short → Medium
- Evidence Strength:
- Indicative
- Feasibility:
- High
Create improved methods for stabilizing and transferring motifs onto nonwoven supports—such as temporary reinforcements/interlinings and mold-based motif transfer—to overcome the difficulties observed when using horizontal frames and when marking designs directly on the surface.
- Scope:
- Meso
- Time Horizon:
- Short → Medium
- Evidence Strength:
- Indicative
- Feasibility:
- High